Oil Properties, Characteristics
and Terms
Properties of Soap Making Oils and their Characteristics
Terminology:
Saturated Fat - Oils that make a hard soap. Usually
come in a solid form and need to be melted before
using. Examples are Coconut, cocoa butter, Palm
oil .
Scenting Oils - There are two types of scenting
oils, fragrance oils, which are man-made and contain
alcohol and essential oils which are natural. The
alcohol in fragrance oils can cause problems
in soap making but knowing the flashpoint can
help prevent soap from 'seizing' (setting up too
quickly). Essential Oil's are more costly
and rarely cause soap to seize, but can burn off
quickly leaving no scent if the mixed into too
hot of a mixture. FO's can be easily used in
rebatching or at trace stage more easily than
eo's.
Superfatting Soap - Oils or fats
that have been left in the soap and have not
been converted by the lye due to decreasing the amount of lye
to fat/oil. Or the oil/fat was added after trace
stage and mix had saponified.
Saponification means simply that the lye/water
and oils have been thoroughly mixed and brought
to trace stage - at this point the lye is mostly
neutralized. Adding additional oil/fat to the
soap mixture after it has been saponified helps
the soap retain more oil in the completed bar
giving it additional moisturizing properties.
However, make sure you figure this percentage
into your recipe as adding too much oil will
make the soap too oily.
Superfatting soap by decreasing the lye content
is one way to
eliminate adding extra oil at trace, but you
lose the control over what oil is actually left
in the finished soap. Check your recipe at
Soap-Calc or another calculator to make sure you
get the right amounts. Also, remember that when
adding oils at trace (called superfatting), be
sure to use a lye calculation that will give you
about 1% excess fat and don't include the oils
that you plan on adding at trace in the
calculation.
Trace - is the point when the soap/lye mixture
thickens. You can figure that at trace, the solution is
about 80-90% saponified. Your other ingredients,
such as essential oils, superfatting
oils, colors, additives, etc can now be added without
their characteristics being changed substantially
by the saponification process. However, I always
make sure that the mixture is around 100 degrees
before adding fragrance or essential oils.
Unsaturated Fat - These are oils that are in a liquid form.
Unsaturated fats need to be combined with saturated fats to create a hard bar.
Oils to Use in Soap
Aloe Vera Liquid, Aloe Vera Gel
Aloe Vera is used in creams and lotions. Well
known for its healing qualities and for soothing damaged
or dry skin. Aloe is also great for healing on burns,
skin irritations, and raw open wounds. Liquid aloe vera
is a great additive to cosmetic formulations, soaps,
and even straight on the skin.
Apricot Kernel Oil
Apricot kernel oil is a great superfatting oil.
A wonderful moisturizer which helps condition
the skin. Usually used at the rate of one or two ounces
per pound of
fat at trace.
Avocado Oil
Another great moisturizer and superfatter.
Contains
vitamins A, D, and E, which gives it healing as
well as moisturizing properties. Can be used up to 30% as
a base oil.
Beeswax
Sweet, sweet smell of honey! It makes for a harder bar of soap and
used in creams,
lotions, lip balms and candle making - quite a
legend beeswax can be. Usually used about
at the rate of 1 oz per
lb. of oils to make soaps
harder.
Calendula Oil
Lots of therapeutic benefits and known to treat
various types of skin damages such as (burns, wounds,
and dry
skin. For superfatting soap use
approximately 1 2/3 tablespoons per
5 lbs of soap at trace. You can also use up to
about 20% as one of your oil ingredients in your
recipe.
Canola Oil
A wonderful moisturizer but can cause
saponification to be a little slow. You can use
Canola Oil in place of Olive Oil if you choose
(but no more than 50% of oils in recipe), and it
needs to be mixed with other saturated fats in
order to increase Saponification.
Castor Oil
Another superfat oil. Castor oil is wonderful at
holding moisture in the skin and used with other
vegetable oils, it produces a nice hard bar of
soap. Add it at trace for superfatting or to
other oils at the rate of no more than 30% in
your total amount of oils.
Cocoa Butter
Will make your soap harder. If, however, you use
it as a superfat oil, it will put a protective layer
in the soap which will hold the moisture
into the skin, making it an excellent skin
softener. The unrefined cocoa butter comes with
a natural chocolate scent, but if you don't like
the smell, you can get the unscented version.
Use it anywhere from 1 to 16 ounces at trace or
15% of your total base oils.
Coconut Oil
This one is a staple in all my soaps as it lathers beautifully
. However, it can be drying if it's your main or
2nd largest ingredient. but can
be drying when it makes up a large portion of your
soap's fats, Coconut oil
is a saturated fat so use it at a percentage of no
more than 20-30% in your base oils.
Emu Oil
Some people call this a miracle oil as it has
been said to heal skin tissue and draw other
pertinent ingredients deep into your skin.
Usually used at about 1 ounce per pound at
trace.
Evening Primrose Oil
This oil is absorbed quickly, providing
essential fatty acids. It is said to help inhibit bacterial growth and encourage antibodies
helping the skin defend itself against infection
or inflammation. Not for oily skin complexions.
Use at about 2T per 5 lbs. of soap and add this
oil at trace.
Grapeseed Oil
Grapeseed oil won't leave a greasy feeling - as
it's a light oil that absorbs quickly. Usually used
as a superfatting oil; just use
one ounce per pound at trace.
Hazelnut Oil
This one is a great moisturizer for facial bars.
With hazelnut oil, however, use saturated fats
as well in your recipe so that the trace time
isn't so long. 20% of total oils is plenty.
Hempseed Oil
This one can spoil quickly, but can create a
very silky bar of soap. Keep it a small
percentage of your base oils as the finished bar
may spoil after a few months. When used as a
superatting oil, use at 5% at trace or 25% of
base oils - no more than 40% of total oils.
Honey
Honey - well, it's certainly not an oil, but it
can be a humectant, and therefore helps retain moisture
on the skin in much the same way as glycerin. Use
it at about 2 Tablespoons per pound of oils, added
at trace.
Jojoba
Love this one and use it in most of my recipes.
Jojoba's lathering qualities and condition
properties are well known among soapers. It is
usually used as a superfat as it can be
expensive. It is also an excellent emollient for
dry skin, psoriasis and other skin conditions
because it's chemical composition is very close
to our own skin's sebum. Beneficial for all skin
types, even sensitive or oily skin. Jojoba has
so many qualities it's hard to list them all
here, but it also helps unclog pores, remove
embedded grime and restores and conditions
hair! Usually used at about 2 oz. per pound at
trace. .
Kukui Nut Oil
The kukui nut is native to Hawaii and is high in
linoleic acid. Kukui Nut oil is absorbed quickly
into the skin and is an excellent skin
conditioner especially after sun exposure. Good
for acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Use 2 tablespoons
to 5 lbs of soap at trace before adding essential oils.
If you prefer adding it as one of your base
oils, use about 10-20% of the total fats.
Lard
Lard you say? Yep, it makes an excellent soap!
And it's great for the beginner as it's readily
available and very inexpensive. Lard makes a nice lathery, white bar of soap
but should be combined with vegetable oils such
as coconut or palm. Without other oils it will
tend to be too soft. Use it
as a base oil of about 70% as your total
of base oils.
Macadamia Oil
This one has a long shelf life but is a highly luxurious
oil and is a great addition to any soap recipe.
It protects the skin cells and leaves your skin
in wonderful condition. For superfatting, use 1
ounce per pound at trace.
Mango Butter
Mango butter is extracted from the mango fruit
and is slightly yellowish in color. Mango
butter is a wonderful moisturizer and great
superfatter. As a superfatting agent use it at
5% at trace, or in your base oils, use 15% of
base oils.
Monoi Oil, also known as Monoi de Tahiti
LOVE LOVE LOVE this oil!! This wonderful but
expensive oil is not only luxurious but the
smell will send you to heaven! It comes from
coconut oil and has wonderful moisturizing
properties. Use it as a base oil at 60% or
higher, or as a superfat at 5%.
Neem Oil
Extracted from the bark of the Neem Tree having
the ability to treat various skin disorders
including dandruff. Use as a base oil up to 40%.
Olive Oil
Probably the most used oil in soap recipes. An excellent base oil
- either as 100% (Castile) or as a major
percentage in your recipe. The best type of
Olive Oil is the lower grade version as it keeps
the properties through saponification better
than virgin or extra virgin olive oil. It is a
great skin softener, and keeps skin supple and
younger looking as well! You can use it as your
total percentage of base oils.
Palm Oil or Vegetable Tallow
Palm oil is also known as vegetable tallow
and makes hard bar that cleans well. It is also
makes for a mild bar of soap. This is a good
substitute for Lard if you prefer all vegetable
soaps. Palm oil is used in many expensive luxury
soaps and is therefore used in your base oils at
20-30%.
Palm Kernel Oil
Has the same qualities and recommendations as
Palm Oil
Peanut Oil
Peanut oil qualities offers long-lasting lathering
qualities. However, it is also unsaturated and
prone to spoilage. Use as a base oil of up to
about 20% max.
Safflower Oil
Use
Safflower oil in combination with palm, coconut, or a similar
oil. Iit can be used as a base oil of up to 60%,
however 20% is usually recommended.
Sesame Seed Oil
Another good oil for skin problems such as Psoriasis, Eczema,
Rheumatism, and Arthritis. Because of its high
moisturizing qualities, it makes a good superfatting
oil. Although it makes a soft bar unless used
with other more saturated oils, it offers a
wonderful nutty scent. It has a strong nutty
scent.
Use it as a 10% addition to base oils.
Shea Butter
Shea butter - not enough paper to explain how
GREAT this butter is!! As a superfatting addition
it is beyond words and even has a large percentage of ingredients that
don't react with lye and therefore will remain
in the soap to nourish your skin. 20% of your
total oil base is a nice beginning - or as a superfatting
additive use 2 tablespoons per 5 pounds of oils
added at trace.
Sweet Almond Oil
Another great superfatting additive. Not only a great moisturizer,
it also makes a great
lather and conditions the skin as wekk. Add 1 ounce
per pound of fats to your soap batch at trace.
Vegetable Shortening or Soybean Oil
Vegetable shortening is usually made of soybean
oil. Cheap and readily available it produces
a mild, firm lather. You can use Vegetable
Shortening as 1/2 of your fats to keep costs
down and to make a very hard white bar. Or you
can combine it with more exotic oils of your
choice to round out your recipe and still keep
costs down.
Sunflower Oil
Sunflower oil is another alternative to
olive oil and keeps your expenses down. Since it
naturally contains Vitamin E, it will
resist going rancid. However, don't store it for
more than six months.
Don't use more than about 15-20% as it can
make your soaps take longer to trace and to harden.
Usually 20% as one of your base oils is
sufficient.
Wheat Germ Oil
Wheat Germ Oil is rich in vitamin E and is thick, sticky and
is considered an antioxidant. It's another great
skin conditioner and can help reduce
scarring and may prevent stretch marks. It is
also great for mature skin, but should be kept refrigerated.
Recommendation is 1 ounce per pound added at trace.
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